Sabahs are really quite simple — the thoughtful combination of three elements: our high quality, thoughtfully produced leather, a unique hand-stitched construction and skilled human hands.
The result is a distinct looking pair of shoes, which are uniquely comfortable & flexible without losing durability. The idea of Sabahs is that they should initially fit snug to your feet as they will stretch & mold over time, becoming more beautiful and more comfortable with every step.
The thin rubber outsole, added to every pair to protect the leather sole, can easily be replaced, allowing your Sabahs to live many lives — and contribute to a lifestyle that values quality over quantity. Sabahs are not inexpensive to produce, nor to purchase, but for the quality, versatility and wearability - they are unmatched in the value they deliver.
We are passionate about what we make — the details, the quality, and the stories of the people behind every element. I’d encourage you to read on to learn more about our craft.
Enjoy!
Sincerely,
Mickey Ashmore
Owner, Sabah
Our Materials
When I started Sabah, I didn’t know a thing about making shoes. But I quickly learned, the best design and the sturdiest construction is only as good as the underlying materials. In our case, it's all about the leather.
At Sabah, we exclusively use high quality, top grade leather. We have three main priorities with our leathers: (1) the promise to age beautifully with wear, (2) a natural tannage to ensure the leathers mold to one's feet comfortably and (3) to work with tanneries we know, trust and are eco-certified by the Leather Working Group.
"Sabahs are free of synthetic materials, which have a tendency to break down (not age beautifully), smell, and become less, rather than more, comfortable with time."
Working in the shoe business since 2013, we’ve created relationships with a few of the best leather makers around the world. From Turkish family owned run tanneries that have been in business for generations to our leather providers in El Paso, Texas who have access to high quality, 100% veg tanned saddle leathers and beyond, we work closely with them to ensure we get only the best.
As we’ve grown, we’ve gone from buying existing leather stock to working
hand-in-hand with these master tanners to develop leather articles that are
proprietary to Sabah, not only in color, but in the characteristics that
make them perfect for our type of shoe and the use of our customers. Great
leather is mostly in the subtle details, the underlying tanning process and
the original source of the hide — only over time will you understand whether
the leather is high quality or not. We do that upfront work to ensure every
hide, every cut and every pair ages just right.
At our
workshops, we employ a leather manager, whose job is to carefully inspect
and select the best hides from every batch we receive. We guarantee your
Sabahs are made from the world’s finest leather, produced with integrity and
care.
Three Leathers Make a Sabah:
The Upper
This is the colorful leather that is most visible and makes up the top part of the shoe. We use cow leathers for our upper; primarily vegetable-tanned or semi-vegetable tanned. Generally soft to the touch, but robust enough to break in nicely and perform well over time. We work with smooth leathers, nubucks, suede, and hair-on leathers too.
The Buffalo Sole
Perhaps the most salient characteristic of a Sabah is the water buffalo leather that acts as the true sole of the shoe. A thing of the past, requiring a very traditional and time-consuming tanning process, few shoemakers employ the use of water buffalo nowadays because it's hard to find and difficult to work with. However, it's quite a magical leather — providing an amazing combination of durability & comfort, molding to one's feet, and staying uniquely fresh over time. Sabah's never smell, and that's due to our use of great leather and most notably water buffalo leather which is naturally anti-microbial.
The Lining
Sabahs are lined with vegetable-tanned, all-natural, and high-quality leather. The lining is super comfortable and, thanks to it's natural characteristics, ages beautifully and does not smell over time. It's important to us, that even the lining leather of Sabahs is top quality.
The Construction
Every pair of Sabahs is entirely handmade, using minimal glue and a unique
hand-stitched sole construction that has been passed down for generations
within a few families in southeast Turkey.
The result of this process — a pair of shoes that is flexible, able to mold
to one’s feet without compromising on durability.
Sabahs are hand lasted — the process of wrapping the colorful leather uppers
over the plastic mold of a foot to dictate size and form. Hand lasting is
difficult and strenuous but allows the craftsmen to manipulate each piece of
leather, understanding its unique characteristics, to form the perfect pair
of Sabahs. A dying art, hand lasting is essential to the form of Sabahs as a
machine cannot understand the nuance of the leather.
Sabahs are primarily held together by a single waxed thread that is hand
sewn around the sole, binding together all four pieces of leather into a
shoe. This style of construction is unique to Sabah and a few shoemakers in
Turkey. It requires months of training to learn, and years to perfect. Since
starting Sabah, we’ve created a training program to recruit and train new
stitchers- we now employ nearly ten. As we expand our operations to El Paso,
Texas we are experimenting with other stitching processes such as “Lock
Stitch” — a method of stitching, which intertwines two threads, one from the
bottom and one from the top, creating a strong bond so that even if one
stitch is worn away the other stitches will not unravel and will remain as
strong as ever.
As a final step, we apply a rubber outsole to every pair of Sabahs with a
combination of heat, glue and pressure. This sole is intended to protect the
stitching and sole and should be replaced as needed to maximize the
longevity of your Sabahs.
Our Makers
The Sabah Story is ultimately a human story — every pair we make passes through the talented hands of the individuals featured below, the craftsmen of our first Sabah Workshop in Gaziantep, Turkey and our second workshop in El Paso, Texas. You'll notice that every pair of Sabahs has a letter written on the inside, simply with a ballpoint pen. That's the initial of the maker responsible for your pair.
Duran cuts all buffalo leather soles and heels for our Sabah production; a job that requires precision and a deep understanding of leather to select only the best parts for a Sabah or Baba. He has worked at the Sabah workshop for 9 years, beginning his career in the shoe industry at a neighbor’s workshop. He is famous among his coworkers for his desserts, which he regularly makes at the workshop. Afiyet olsun!
Duran
Leather Cutter, Gaziantep
Mehmet is one of our talented hand lasters, the process of stretching leather over a form to dictate size & shape. It is rare in shoemaking, but we believe gives Sabah that special, handwrought feel. He has worked at the Sabah workshop for 6 years; however, his career began over 30 years ago. Outside of work, he enjoys spending time with his family.
Mehmet
Laster, Gaziantep
Cihangir, known as “Cihan”, is one of our talented side stitchers - the unique process that binds upper, insole and midsole and is iconic to Sabah. He has worked at the Sabah workshop for 12 years, having been introduced to this line of work by a family friend. Outside of work, he enjoys spending time with his family, especially his 4-year-old daughter.
Cihan
Side-Stitcher, Gaziantep
Duran manages leather cutting for all Sabah production, with a focus on our wide range of upper leathers. He has worked at the Sabah workshop for 9 years and brings a wealth of knowledge to our team with over 50 years of shoemaking experience, having started as a teenager under his uncle’s guidance. He enjoys backgammon and making time for travel outside of work.
Duran
Leather Cutter, Gaziantep
Yılmaz is one of our side stitchers – the unique stitch that binds upper, insole and midsole together and is signature to Sabah. He has worked as a stitcher for nearly a decade, previously a shoe salesman in the bazaar. Before that he was a coppersmith specialized in handmade copper products. Outside of work, he enjoys DIY and repair projects around his house.
Yilmaz
Side Stitcher, Gaziantep
Mehmet manages leather cutting for all Sabah production, from soles to uppers, and also trains the quality control team. He has worked at the Sabah workshop for 13 years. He began his career in his late teens, almost 50 years ago, working alongside his older brother at a small shoe factory. Outside of work, he enjoys exploring new cuisines and playing cards.
Mehmet
Leather Cutter, Gaziantep
Sait handles all inner lining cutting for Sabah production – manipulating the soft leathers with a precise touch and keeps the high volume of cutting very organized. He has worked at the Sabah workshop for 4 years. Before joining Sabah, he ran his own small workshop and prior to that he was professional soccer player. Outside work, he enjoys spending time with his family.
Sait
Leather Cutter, Gaziantep
Nihat is one of our hand lasters responsible for all Sabah production. Lasting is the process of stretching various upper leathers over a form that dictates size & fit. He’s worked with Sabah for 8 years, having begun his shoemaking career as a teenager with a small local shoe producer. Outside of work, he is a big soccer fan and enjoys watching and playing soccer.
Nihat
Laster, Gaziantep
Bülent is one of our talented hand lasters, the process of stretching leather over a form to dictate size & shape. It is rare in shoemaking, but we believe gives Sabah that special, handwrought feel. He has worked at the Sabah workshop for 24 years. Outside of work, he enjoys off-road vehicles, and is an avid fisherman who regularly travels to the Mediterranean coast.
Bülent
Laster, Gaziantep
Salih is one of our talented hand lasters - the process of stretching leather over a form to dictate size & shape. It is rare in shoemaking, but we believe gives Sabah that special, handwrought feel. Salih has worked with Sabah for 5 years. Outside of shoemaking, he enjoys playing cards with friends, soccer, and horse racing.
Salih
Laster, Gaziantep
Hamza is one of our talented side stitchers - the unique process that binds upper, insole and midsole and is iconic to Sabah. He has worked at the Sabah workshop for 3 years. He learned shoe stitching at an early age from his father, an expert side stitcher. Outside of work, he enjoys the martial arts and practices Kickboxing, Muay Thai, and Taekwondo.
Hamza
Side Stitcher, Gaziantep
Mahmut runs the sewing room at Sabah, specifically the sewing, snipping, folding and gluing of all colorful & patterned uppers we’re known for. His work requires a steady hand and serious attention to detail. He joined our team 5 years ago, previously working at a local shoe factory. Outside of work, he runs a small farm where he grows pistachio trees and enjoys cooking.
Mahmut
Upper Maker, Gaziantep
Ricardo started working as an apprentice shoe maker at thirteen and has been working in the industry ever since. He’s opened his own factories, worked for other prestigious footwear manufacturers and ultimately has found himself settled in El Paso near his kids, working as a master stitcher at the Sabah workshop.
Ricardo
Master Stitcher & Shoe Maker, El Paso
Frank has lived in El Paso all his life, learning the ins and outs of the shoe making industry while working for one of the most well known boot makers in the area. He’s an expert in leather and oversees the Sabah leather warehouse with great care and knowledge. He’s quiet, humble and key to the success of our Sabah El Paso workshop.
Frank
Master Leather Technician & Cutter, El Paso
Native to El Paso, Brenda has worked for years as an expert stitcher for one of the most premier western boot makers in the area. Brenda is expanding her shoe making skills at the Sabah workshop, where she specifically stitches uppers and hand lasts Babas with great precision. We are delighted to have Brenda on our team.
Brenda
Master Stitcher & Hand Laster, El Paso
Daniel is a quick and ambitious learner, always wearing a smile as he diligently performs his workshop tasks. His grandfather is French and he would like to learn the language someday. He’s also passionate about Corrido, a form of narrative song popular in Mexico and the southwest and hopes to form his own band one day.
Daniel
Apprentice, El Paso
Jesus comes from a family of shoe makers. Jesus’ father began teaching him the trade at age nineteen, just like his father taught him. He’s one of the strongest lasters we’ve ever met – a process that involves tightly wrapping the leathers around the plastic form to set the shape of the shoe. Born in El Paso, Jesus lives in Juarez with his wife and children.
Jesus
Master Hand Laster, El Paso
Byron is developing his shoe making skills and forming a long term career in manufacturing. Two evenings a week he plays soccer with friends in the forward position, he’s fast on the field and in the workshop, quiet, yet precise in every task he’s given.
Byron
Apprentice, El Paso
Since childhood, Roberto has been crafting western style boots. Without lifting his head he could make an exquisitely constructed boot from start-to-finish. As a second hand laster, he helps move the shoes through the most laborious part of the shoe making process. When not in the workshop, Roberto enjoys cooking, especially all of the Mexican classics!
Roberto
2nd Hand Laster, El Paso
Richard was born in the esteemed shoe making city of Leon Guanajuato, Mexico. Over twenty years ago, he moved his family to El Paso to start his own shoe making business. He’s a master leather tooler and one of the first to join our team in El Paso. As General Manager, Richard will be the expert navigator of the Sabah Workshop!